Here are some details and pictures of the brake and front suspension installation. There are loads of web pages with details of the B-body spindle and 12" rotor swap, so I'm not going to beat that to death too much, but I do have some details and information I haven't seen elsewhere that I'll share.

First, I picked up the spindles, rotors, and calipers from a mid 80s B-body. I then bought late 80s F-body 12" rotors (the 1LE option), rebuilt calipers, new pads, pins, etc. I was going to use the B-body rotors but didn't have access to a mill to redrill them (they're 5 on 5 " pattern and must be redrilled to use "normal" GM pattern).

When I test fit the 12" 1LE rotors, one fit, and one didn't. Note the picture of the rotor hitting the caliper ear and the caliper bolt spacing:

After some cussing and head scratching, apparently the car I picked up the spindles from had one replaced and it had the spindle meant for 11" rotors on one side. I went back out and got the correct spindle. The part #s for the correct spindles are: 369055 LH and 369056 RH. There may be others that will work, I don't know.

Now, on to the upper A-arms. There are several aftermarket options available from Global West, Hotchkis, etc.; most are pricy ($400+). I started looking at stock car places..they make custom A-arms, the fabrication quality is good, and they're dirt cheap! You need the measurements as they have no clue what you need. Thanks to Chris Bischof's help and some research, I came up with a length of 7.5" and an offset of 1.25" (for about 4-5 degrees caster). I also angled the ball joint mount inward 10 degrees to try and get it less angular at ride height.

Two companies I checked out were UB Machine and Stock Car Products. UB Machine has the correct "metric" cross shafts (6 7/8" spacing) but they charge a setup fee for custom work. Stock Car Products only does the 6" spacing cross-shafts but they were quick and cheap (approx. $120). I ordered a set along with the frame mounts for the cross-shafts.

Got the A-arms; the quality was excellent..but it looked like modifying the cross-shaft mount on the frame would be a pain. Using the mount they sent would mean relocating the shock mount. Time for plan B.

A local fabricator who builds circle track cars ordered the cross-shafts from UB Machine and fabricated new A-arms for me. He did a beautiful job and was very cheap. After we're sure that the geometry on mine is correct, I may get him to make some more for sale.

We used the heavy duty Chrysler screw-in ball joints; these require reaming the spindle to match. I had this done at a circle track place for $5 per spindle. I did have to grind the mount slightly to clear the rear tube; if he does more we'll make them come out straighter to avoid this. Here's the final installation with the coil-overs installed (thanks Warren!).

OK.. a couple of people have asked me for more pictures of the coilovers. Here you go:

The manual steering box is in and the old power steering box is out. This is an early 80s S-10 piece that my buddy Jim Yamnitz found for me in a California yard. I couldn't find one locally. It set me back about $30. I like the little plastic piece that came with it that retains the plastic sleeve on the steering shaft; makes it look factory.

And finally, here is the car back on all 4 wheels. I still have to get tie rod couplers and an adjusting wrench for the coilovers, but at least it's rolling again!